Generally, load-bearing walls will be in a central location, and they will be perpendicular to the floor joists. If you have a basement, you can easily identify a load-bearing wall by checking the direction of the joists in the ceiling of the basement. [2] X Research source [3] X Research source If you’re installing a pocket door in a load-bearing wall, you may need temporary ceiling support while you replace the existing header. This might mean consulting a professional contractor.
Use a section of 2 by 4 (5. 08 by 10. 16cm) as the new header. This will need to be 1 inch (2. 54 cm) more than twice the length of the pre-existing header, since it will need to span the distance of the entire rough opening. When you’re replacing a header in a load-bearing wall, it is recommended that you use 2 by 12’s (5. 08 by 30. 48 cm) for the new header. Be sure that your saw is safety-rated for wood containing nails. Tilt the door out of the opening.
Generally, a 1 by 4 (2. 54 by 10. 16cm) plate will enable the door to clear the carpeting without cutting it. If there is no carpet, the brackets of most door kits can be installed directly into the floor.
