Marking chalk, along with any of the other supplies you need for the wall, are available at most hardware stores. Be aware of any utility lines or other obstacles in the area. Your local utility companies can help you with this.
The footer needs to be below the frost line, which is about 1 ft (0. 30 m) below the soil’s surface on average. Check your local government’s municipal code for an exact estimate. The footer size you need depends on the wall you wish to create. A good footer is as tall as the wall is wide. If you already have a concrete base in place, you do not need to create another one. Instead, skip to setting up the form.
Make sure the soil is level before you begin pouring concrete. If you need to, plant stakes and run string tightly between them. Check for any spots where the string doesn’t rest firmly on the soil.
The layer of stone helps prevent the concrete from shifting and cracking over time. It also increases drainage in clay soil.
You can also expand the rebar grid up the sides of the hole. This will give the concrete additional stability. It’s necessary if you’re planning on putting heavy walls on top of the footer, such as for a pool or house.
You may be able to rent a concrete mixer. Check your local hardware store. Remember to leave space between the soil’s surface and the footer. The height of the soil over the footer needs to be equal to the width of the wall you wish to build.
Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the exact drying time needed. It varies depending on which mix you choose. For a quick-dry mix, it will take about 7 days. As you wait for the concrete to cure, begin building the wood form you need to shape the concrete wall.
Rest the frame pieces against a solid surface to prevent them from falling. If your frame is tall, you may need to begin installing the connecting studs before adding more boards. Try to make the frame pieces as long as you need them to be. If you’re building a long wall, build the frame in sections. Smaller pieces are much easier to handle and can be joined together later. If you’re building your own forms, you will probably need to do plenty of cutting. Have a circular saw ready along with a dust mask and ear protection.
Place the nails about 2 in (5. 1 cm) from the top and bottom edges of each stud.
The wales also provide a place for you to tie connecting wires and attach braces for additional support.
The braces aren’t exactly part of the forms, but they provide much-needed stability to the forms.
The additional brace boards need to be about 12 in (30 cm) long. The exact length depends on the size of your wall. Taller walls need longer braces for extra support.
Nail through the plywood and into the studs. If you work the other way, the screw ends will stick out into the concrete you pour, affecting your wall.
Plant the stakes firmly in the ground. When your forms are in place, they won’t budge at all. Test them out by pushing against them with your hand. If you’re having a hard time getting everything to stay still where you need it, try using wire ties. Wrap wires around the studs in the forms to tie them to the shoe plates. Drill holes in the plates as needed to attach the wires.
The wires hold the forms together when you pour the concrete. If the forms slip out of place, you’ll be looking at a concrete mess instead of a solid wall.
Another way to do this is by sliding tie rods through the holes. Slide brackets onto the ends of the rods so they can’t slide out of place. [14] X Research source
Check your local hardware store for spacers. Many places sell “spreader cleats” or a similarly-named product. If you can’t find any, you can always cut them yourself out of scrap boards.
Set the loop on top of your wall for now. Try tying them to the wall so the wires don’t slip into the concrete as you pour it.
If you add too much water, the concrete turns a little soupy. It will weaken your wall, so don’t overmix your batch of concrete. If you can’t make the entire wall at once, divide it into smaller sections. Mix enough concrete to fill each section at a time. This is very useful for long walls where the concrete might dry out before you’re done pouring it. Make sure you wear glasses, gloves, and a ventilated mask when you’re mixing concrete. It’s also a good idea to wear long pants. [19] X Expert Source Gerber Ortiz-VegaMasonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC Expert Interview. 10 March 2020.
If you can help it, don’t wait to pour additional layers. The concrete will cool and begin to settle. If you have to wait, pour a store-bought concrete bonding adhesive onto the settled concrete so the next layer bonds to it.
Take the spacers out as you work to prevent the concrete from curing around them. Leaving them in will leave gaps in the layers, weakening the wall.
Pack down as much of the concrete as you can before scraping off the excess. Any air bubbles or empty space left behind reduces the integrity of your wall. To help pack and level the concrete properly, tap the forms with a hammer or mallet.
Some concrete mixes take 28 days in total to solidify, but you will need to remove the forms before then to finish the installation.
Old forms can be reused if you plan on making more walls! You can also recycle the wood for other projects. If you leave the wires in place, they may rust and discolor the wall.
Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for drying your concrete mix. Some mixes require less than the usual 28 days to fully cure. If you happen to see holes or other signs of damage, fix them as soon as possible. Try using a store-bought concrete patching mix. Usually, you mix the patching material like concrete, then spread it over the damaged portion with a trowel.
