Lead out approximately three rod-lengths’ worth of fishing line. Hold the rod with your dominant hand. Check the line for tangles. If there are any tangles present, you’ll need to straighten them out before casting. With your arm slightly extended, whip the tip of the rod up and back in a steady movement. Don’t whip the rod too far back; you’ll want to stop when the tip of the rod is pointing up and just slightly behind you. Watch as the line unfurls. The three rod-lengths’ worth of line should be extended. Immediately before the line completely straightens out above/behind you, flick the rod forward to send the line out onto the surface of the water.
Hold the rod in your dominant hand slightly in front of you. Check the line for tangles. Straighten out any tangles present before you attempt to cast. Gently bring the rod back. The tip should be above your casting shoulder, and a small piece of line should be hanging behind you. Move the rod forward. Start slow, then speed it up as your arm comes down. Don’t whip the rod too far ahead. Stop when the tip of the rod is still angled slightly upward. The loop of line should unfurl and cast onto the surface of the water.
There are two primary ways to imitate an actual insect: letting it drift without any movement on your part, or giving the line very slight, gentle twitches to imitate natural movement. Move your rod to the right or left to change the angle at which the line lays on the water. If you are upstream from a fish, keep the rod (and your rod arm) angled upstream. As the fly moves downstream with the current, slowly angle your rod and arm to face downstream at the same speed the fly is moving at to create a drag-free line. If a fish is feeding near the surface, try to cast your fly so that it lands near the fish’s head and floats towards it.
Keep the rod’s tip low to the water. That way when a fish strikes, you can move the rod’s tip in the direction of line curvature. Keep the line as taut as possible. If you try to set the hook while there’s excess slack in the line it will not move the hook whatsoever. Set the hook securely in the fish’s mouth. You’ll do this by continuing to hold the rod with one hand and pulling down sharply on the line with the other hand. Do not yank the rod tip upwards. Some fishers do this thinking it helps set the hook, but really it just complicates the process of reeling in your fish. If the fish tries to bolt upstream, keep the rod tip close to the water and pointed in the direction of the line, not the fish. Continue to strip away line until the fish tires itself out. Palm the reel if you’re pulling in a big fish. This simply means applying pressure with your palm to the reel to prevent the spool from running out. [5] X Research source
Do not lift your rod up. This could put too much pressure on the rod, causing it to break. Try to keep the fish in the water as much as possible, especially if you plan on releasing it. If you’re working with a larger fish, it may be easier to “beach” the fish by leading it onto a bank where the water is shallowest. Move the net into position and gently pull the line to guide the fish head-first over the net’s rim. Once the fish’s body is past the rim of the net, flick the rim up (to ensure the fish doesn’t jump out quickly) while simultaneously lifting the net out of the water. This should prevent escape and send the fish to the bottom of your net. Carefully unhook your fly from the fish’s mouth. Remember that it will most likely be thrashing and flailing, so be careful not to cut yourself or hurt the fish.
Different regions have differing requirements on the minimum size of a fish. Those requirements may change within a single state if you’re fishing in a wilderness area. Some bodies of water (especially those in wilderness areas) may be catch-and-release only. In this case, you must unhook the fish and set it loose in the water. [8] X Expert Source Michael ReynoldsProfessional Fishing Instructor Expert Interview. 26 February 2021. Always check the laws and guidelines in any region you intend to fish. You can find these requirements by searching online, or by asking a park ranger (or the equivalent).
Search online to see what your state requires. You can also find helpful courses on e-learning sites like Udemy. You can also find information online on where and how to acquire a fishing license. Some locations may allow you to acquire a fishing license online, while others require you to visit a retail or licensing facility in person. If you need a fishing license quickly, search “fishing license” and the name of the state. In many places, you can use a website or an app to get your fishing license immediately—you just save the license to your phone. [10] X Expert Source Kathy Sparrow, MAFishing Instructor Expert Interview. 1 April 2020.
a fly rod (for most freshwater streams, lakes, and ponds, a six to eight-foot rod is sufficient)[12] X Research source a spool flies pliers a hemostat (special clamps/forceps used to remove hooks from a trout’s mouth) a sharp pocket knife a rod and reel case a fly box to transport your gear a landing net a hat to block out the sun (anything with a brim will suffice) sunglasses with polarized lenses (so you can see through the glare in the water) waders wading boots (for better grip on the slippery riverbed) non-slip feet attachments (like sole spikes) a fly fishing vest with pockets for your tools and flies
mayfly hatch Caddisfly hatch stonefly hatch terrestrial hatch (designed to look like and imitate a terrestrial insect) midges scuds leeches dragonfly/damselfly
Pass the line just before the eye of the hook and wrap it around the shank of the hook to the midpoint. Place your fly materials on the shank of the hook and pinch them in place. Wrap the line around the fly materials until they’re firmly in place, then wrap back over the spot you just wrapped. This will help secure the hackles (or whatever materials you’re using) in place. If you add any additional materials, make sure they’re approximately even/level with the materials already wrapped to your hook. You can split hackles or other materials by separating them a tiny bit (just a half-inch or so at the tips) and wrapping some of the line between them. Apply some wax to the line just before the hook/fly. Pinch and twist a tiny amount of dubbing fur to the wax. Keep twisting and wrapping it in one direction up and down the waxed portion of line until the fur is tightly around that section of the line. Wrap the waxed and fur-wrapped section of line around the hook shank towards the tail, then turn and wrap back over the shank. Tie off the line, cut off any excess thread, and use a drop of liquid cement to secure the whole fly in place.
Always wet your knot with saliva or river water before tightening it. This allows you to slide the knot around on the line and get it into place. Keep your knots tight once they’re in position. Use a continuous and steady pull on the line, and check that your fly is secure before casting. Trim any excess line off the end past the knot. Try to cut as close to the knot as possible without actually hitting the knot itself.
Look for boulders and submerged trees/debris. Fish tend to use these underwater areas for shelter/protection, as well as for feeding. Scan the water for any areas just downstream of rocks and trees. Fish commonly position themselves just past these refuge areas knowing that smaller fish and aquatic invertebrates will travel downstream. In the early morning hours you might be able to find fish in unusually shallow water as they search for food. Stand on the bank and scan the shallows for signs of fish. Try casting in undercut banks. If the water has worn out a channel under the bank of the river and created a hollowed-out space, it’s a good bet that fish congregate there. Look for pools where the stream/river widens to a gut. The head of the pool (where the pool first widens) is usually a good fishing spot, as well as the slower current just downstream of the head. Avoid casting in the downstream end of a pool (called the tailout). That area tends to be more shallow and near rapids/riffles downstream, so most fish tend to avoid these areas.
If you’re just starting to learn how to fly fish, you may not know how to spot a fish on the bed or a river. You’ll be able to see a fish’s shadows most clearly during midday due to the position of the sun and the reduction of glare on the water. If you’re just starting out, it may be best to practice spotting fish and casting during the midday sun. You can always stick around until fish become more active, or come back at a later time.
Fish can detect disturbances in the water. Some may even be able to detect disturbances along the shore. Never stomp your feet or make a lot of noise on the banks. Stay in the shade so you don’t cast a shadow, or try crouching/squatting as you approach the water. If you intend to wade into the water, move very, very slowly. Walking in too rapidly will create ripples and send the sound through the water column.
